When the tradition reached India, it was adapted to local ingredients and tastes. In coastal regions such as Goa, shaped by strong Portuguese influence and easy access to rum, the cake took on a darker, richer character. Slow baking, generous quantities of raisins, and prolonged soaking in alcohol became defining traits. What emerged was a cake deeply tied to Christmas celebrations, shared among family and friends, and often gifted as a symbol of warmth, abundance, and memory.

Over time, the terms plum cake and fruit cake have become interchangeable, but there is a distinction worth noting. A traditional plum cake contains only raisins and is sometimes referred to as black cake, while a fruit cake typically includes a mixture of dried fruits and nuts. The true secret to a good plum cake lies in raisins that have been thoroughly soaked in rum.

The question often arises: why is it called a plum cake when there are no plums in it? According to historical usage recorded in the Oxford English Dictionary, the word plum once referred to dried grapes or raisins used in puddings, cakes, and pies. While dried plums, or prunes, were common in medieval baking, they were gradually replaced by raisins during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Dishes made with raisins and other dried fruits continued to be referred to as plums, and the name has endured.

This is also the kind of cake made by Aunty Tesu, a close friend of my mum’s from back home, who made the best cakes I have ever known. Her version has probably been adapted countless times over the years, and mine is likely not as authentic as hers once was. For one, there is no rum. Still, every time I bake this cake, I think of her and her quiet generosity. Her house always smelled of rum and fruit in the weeks leading up to Christmas. She would bring out thick slices of plum cake with cups of tea, carefully stepping around her golden retrievers, their tails wagging furiously as she moved through the room. There was never a visit that ended without a slice wrapped to take home, pressed into your hands as though it were the most natural thing in the world.

That, perhaps, is the real tradition. Not just the cake itself, but the way it was shared.

Watch me make it here:

Goan Plum Cake (Non-Alcoholic)

Fruit Soak

• 450 g mixed dried fruit
• 2 tablespoons marmalade or jam
• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract or seeds from 1 vanilla pod
• ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
• ½ teaspoon cinnamon powder
• ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped candied ginger (optional)
• 1 cup fresh orange juice

Soak for at least 24 hours, ideally several days, refrigerated.

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Cake Batter

• 30 g semolina
• 250 g unsalted butter, room temperature
• 250 g brown sugar
• 4 large eggs, separated, room temperature
• 250 g plain flour
• 50 g cashews or blanched almonds

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Caramel

• ½ cup brown sugar
• ¼ cup boiling water

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Finish

• Warm orange juice for brushing (optional)
• Jam glaze and decorations as before

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Method

1. Soak the Fruit

In a large bowl, combine the mixed dried fruit, marmalade or jam, vanilla, ground cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, and candied ginger if using.
Pour over the fresh orange juice and mix thoroughly so all the fruit is well coated.

Transfer the mixture to a clean glass jar or covered bowl and refrigerate for at least 24 hours. For best flavour, soak for several days, stirring once a day if soaking longer.

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2. Prepare on Baking Day

Two hours before baking, remove the soaked fruit from the refrigerator and stir in the semolina. Set aside at room temperature.

Remove the butter and eggs from the refrigerator and allow them to come to room temperature.

Grease a 9 inch (23 cm) round cake tin with butter and line the base and sides with parchment paper.

Sift the plain flour into a bowl and stir in the chopped cashews or almonds. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F).

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3. Make the Caramel

Place the brown sugar in a small heavy bottomed pan over low heat.
Allow the sugar to melt slowly until it turns a deep amber colour, swirling the pan gently. Do not stir aggressively.

Carefully add the boiling water. The mixture will bubble vigorously.
Stir until smooth and syrupy, then remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.

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4. Prepare the Batter

Separate the eggs, placing the whites in one bowl and the yolks in another.

Beat the egg whites until fluffy and holding soft peaks. Set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, cream the butter and brown sugar together until pale and creamy, about 4 to 5 minutes.

Add the egg yolks one at a time, beating well for about a minute after each addition.

Stir in the soaked fruit mixture until evenly distributed.

Fold in the sifted flour and nut mixture gently until just combined.

Stir in the prepared caramel.

Finally, gently fold in the beaten egg whites, taking care not to overmix.

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5. Bake

Pour the batter into the prepared cake tin and smooth the top.

Place the tin in the centre of the oven and bake for 1 hour.

Check with a skewer inserted into the centre. If it comes out clean, the cake is done.
If not, return the cake to the oven and bake for a further 30 to 40 minutes, checking periodically.

Once baked, remove from the oven and allow the cake to cool in the tin for 15 minutes.

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6. Finish

Transfer the cake to a wire rack.

While the cake is still warm, lightly prick the surface with a skewer and brush with a little warm orange juice if desired.

Decorate the top with glace cherries and nuts, then brush with melted jam for a glossy finish.

Allow the cake to cool completely before wrapping and storing.

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Storage

Wrap well in parchment paper and foil and store in an airtight tin.
The flavour improves after resting for 2 to 3 days.

If you make this plum cake, I would love to know who it reminds you of. Was there an aunty, a neighbour, or a family friend whose house always smelled of cake in December? Leave a comment and share your memory. These are the stories that keep recipes alive.